Introduction: Overview and Cultural Significance
Polki jewellery features uncut, unpolished natural diamonds, often set in gold using lac (shellac) resin. Unlike modern brilliant-cut diamonds familiar in Western jewellery, Polki retains its raw, organic allure, casting a subtle, captivating glow. Each piece has a unique charm, reminiscent of antique treasures.

Culturally, Polki is integral to Indian celebrations, particularly weddings. It is a quintessential element of a bride’s trousseau, symbolizing prosperity, blessings, and family traditions. Owning Polki is more than possessing a valuable asset—it is embracing a living piece of history. Passed down through generations, these pieces accumulate stories, sentiment, and significance, cherished as heirlooms for lifetimes.

History and Origin

• Mughal Era Roots: Polki jewellery traces its origins to the 16th century, flourishing under Mughal rulers known for their refined taste and patronage of the arts.

• Rajasthan – The Epicentre: Rajasthan, with its royal courts and gemstone heritage, became the hub for Polki craftsmanship. Jaipur, famously called the “Pink City,” emerged as the premier centre for exquisite Polki jewellery.

• Royal Patronage: Maharajas and Maharanis favored Polki for their opulent lifestyles, ensuring artisans refined their skills, which have been preserved and passed down over centuries.

Traditional Making Process
Creating Polki jewellery is a meticulous, skilled craft. Key steps include:

• Diamond Selection: Natural, uncut diamonds are chosen for their unique shapes and inherent brilliance.

• Gold Framework: 22-karat gold is crafted into a delicate base, often featuring intricate lattice (jali) designs.

• Lac (Laakh) Setting: Using the traditional “jadau” technique, diamonds are pressed into softened lac resin, securing them without prongs.

• Foil Backing: Silver foil beneath each diamond enhances brilliance, reflecting light for a luminous appearance.

• Enamelling (Meenakari): Many pieces feature hand-painted meenakari work on the reverse, adding hidden splendor.

• Finishing and Embellishments: Polishing, adding pearls or gemstones, and refining every detail completes the artwork.

Each stage reflects the artisan’s mastery, resulting in jewellery that is both aesthetically stunning and technically remarkable.

Global Appeal and Recognition
Polki jewellery is increasingly capturing the hearts of international buyers. Its unique qualities make it stand out in the global luxury market:

• Distinctive Aesthetic: Each uncut diamond offers a unique, old-world charm, appealing to collectors seeking artisanal luxury.

• Cultural Authenticity: Polki provides a tangible connection to Indian heritage, making it culturally meaningful for international buyers.

• Growing Demand: The global interest in handcrafted, ethnic luxury items is rising, with Polki fitting seamlessly into this niche.

• Fashion Forward: Contemporary designers blend Polki into modern and fusion styles, making it versatile for both traditional and Western fashion.

This rising international recognition is evident from its presence in fashion weeks and celebrity collections worldwide.

Brand Spotlight: Tanishq
Tanishq exemplifies the successful global presence of Polki jewellery.

• Overview: A division of Titan Company Limited (Tata Group), Tanishq is a leading Indian jewellery brand known for traditional and contemporary designs. Its Polki and Kundan collections celebrate India’s heritage while maintaining modern appeal.

• Founder: Xerxes Desai

• Year Established: 1994

• Annual Turnover: INR 36,192 crore (~USD 4.3 billion) in 2023 

• Export Data: While exact Polki export figures are unavailable, Tanishq operates international stores in the UAE, USA, and Singapore, promoting Indian craftsmanship globally.

Tanishq demonstrates how traditional art forms like Polki can be scaled and appreciated on an international stage.

Conclusion: Proudly Made in India
Polki jewellery is far more than sparkling diamonds; it is a testament to India’s artistic heritage, cultural depth, and meticulous craftsmanship. From the royal courts of Rajasthan to global fashion runways, Polki’s journey reflects a seamless blend of tradition and contemporary elegance.

Each piece narrates a story—of skilled artisans, rich history, and timeless beauty. For international buyers, owning Polki is owning a handcrafted treasure, Proudly Made in India, embodying centuries of culture, art, and unparalleled sparkle.