Wangkhei Phee: The Sacred Weave of Manipur
A traditional handwoven textile from Manipur, Wangkhei Phee is admired for its purity, elegance, and spiritual symbolism. Once reserved for temple offerings and ceremonial attire, it has evolved into a timeless representation of Manipuri artistry and cultural pride.
Description: Handwoven fabric from Manipur
Type: Handloom Textile
Area: Wangkhei, Imphal East District, Manipur
Country: India
Registered: 2011 (Geographical Indication under Handloom Textiles category)
Material: Fine Cotton or Mulberry Silk
History and Origin
The craft of Wangkhei Phee traces its roots to the Meitei women of Wangkhei village in Imphal East, Manipur. Traditionally woven as sacred offerings and ceremonial garments for deities, the textile symbolized purity, faith, and social respect.
Historically, this fabric adorned royal families and temple rituals, reflecting the deep spiritual connection between weaving and devotion in Manipuri culture. Over generations, women artisans have preserved this heritage, passing down intricate techniques and motifs that define its identity.
The recognition of Wangkhei Phee with a GI tag has ensured its rightful place among India’s most treasured handloom traditions, protecting both its authenticity and the livelihoods of its artisans.
Technique & Manufacturing Process
| Step | Process | Description |
|---|---|---|
| 1️⃣ | Yarn Selection | High-quality cotton or mulberry silk threads are handspun for fineness and strength. |
| 2️⃣ | Loom Preparation | The traditional loin loom (backstrap loom) is set up, often inside the artisan’s home. |
| 3️⃣ | Weaving | Each fabric is handwoven with intricate patterns and motifs, taking several days to complete. |
| 4️⃣ | Design and Motifs | Patterns such as Khokha, Phanek, Moirang Phee, and Phijang are incorporated with precision. |
| 5️⃣ | Finishing | The woven cloth is washed, softened, and finished for texture and sheen. |
| 6️⃣ | Quality Check | Each piece is examined for symmetry, color consistency, and weave tightness before sale or export. |
Types and Characteristics
| Type / Variant | Usage / Symbolism | Special Features |
|---|---|---|
| Phanek Mayek Naibi | Traditional wraparound skirt worn by Meitei women | Fine horizontal stripe designs, symbolizes modesty and grace |
| Innaphi | Upper shawl or veil used in ceremonies | White or pastel shades, denotes purity and devotion |
| Moirang Phee | Decorative variant used for festivals and gifting | Signature triangular border motifs representing protection and prosperity |
Cultural Significance
Wangkhei Phee is not merely a piece of cloth — it is a woven prayer. The white color represents spiritual purity, while its motifs embody peace, protection, and prosperity.
It holds immense religious and social importance, often offered to temple deities or presented as a gift of honor during rituals and marriages.
For Manipuri women, weaving Wangkhei Phee is both an act of devotion and a symbol of identity — preserving their ancestral artistry while contributing to community life.
Symbolic Motifs and Meanings:
🌸 Lotus: Purity and enlightenment
🕊️ Triangle Motif: Protection from evil
🌾 Floral Patterns: Fertility and harmony
🌙 White Shade: Purity, simplicity, and peace
Manufacture & Export
| Segment | Details |
|---|---|
| Production Hub | Wangkhei, Imphal East District, Manipur — home to clusters of women weavers. |
| Artisan Strength | Around 600+ active handloom artisans engaged in community weaving. |
| Domestic Market | Popular across North Eastern states for traditional wear, ceremonies, and gifts. |
| Export Market | Growing exports to Japan, UK, USA, Singapore, and Thailand through handloom fairs and cooperatives. |
| Government Support | Promoted under the Manipur Handloom & Handicrafts Development Corporation (MHHDCL) and supported by APEDA and NEHHDC for export promotion, training, and authenticity certification. |
some well known and trusted brands to buy and export Wangkhei Phee products
Wangkhei Phee Mantris Handloom: Based in Manipur, this studio is cited for promoting Wangkhei Phee and collaborating with celebrities. Femina+1
Wangkhei Phee Studio (owner: Koijam Mantri): A specialised studio in Imphal that revived the craft and promotes high-end Wangkhei Phee. Manipuri Weddings
Rani Phee (Rani Handloom Industries): This handloom house (est. 1960) is mentioned in an article on Manipuri weaving for its quality and bringing fresh designs to Phee fabrics. Home
Legacy and Preservation
The art of Wangkhei Phee weaving continues to thrive due to the unwavering dedication of Meitei women artisans. Passed down through generations, it remains a symbol of cultural resilience and women’s empowerment.
Despite challenges from machine-made textiles, genuine handwoven Wangkhei Phee holds its value due to its artistic intricacy, sustainable production, and spiritual symbolism.
The GI registration has safeguarded the authenticity of this craft, ensuring fair recognition and sustainable livelihoods for the artisans of Manipur.
Conclusion
Wangkhei Phee stands as a sacred reflection of Manipur’s artistry — pure, intricate, and timeless. From temple sanctums to global fashion spaces, it weaves together devotion, tradition, and elegance.
Each handcrafted piece tells the story of faith, patience, and feminine grace, preserving the spirit of Manipuri heritage for generations to come.
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